No more spuds!!!!!

Good morning from a quiet anchorage between the Chilean Islands north of
Cape Horn. The north easterly winds (rare in this part of the world) left us
with very little choice yesterday and we made for a little bay 2 km south of
‘the most southern village in the world’: Puerto Toro. Puerto Toro is home
to a couple of fishing families who catch King Crab in the Beagle Channel
and a navy outpost of about 20 men. In total there are about 15 ‘houses’
that resemble static caravans. In addition to the houses there is a church,
some scruffy dogs and assorted home made garden benches, see saws and
swings. We thought the village was about a half hour walk from our anchorage
… but the thick forest and jagged coastline showed us how wrong we were.
James, Clare, Lara and Carl set out on a dangerous and uncertain mission
leaving the rest of the crew to explore the shorelines around our bay and
look after the boat. We trekked upwards hoping to break out of the thick
forest and gain sight of Puerto Toro but before long we had lost sight of
even each other in the jungle. We threaded our way in uncertain directions
and found ourselves at last at the top of the hill where we hoped to look
down onto roofs in the next bay. No such luck. Another empty bay lay below
us and another thick forested hill surrounding it. We radioed the boat to
let the patent crew know that her skipper and mate were lost in the wilds
and they all seemed pretty happy about that. On we pressed up the next hill,
one prickly jacket ripping bush at a time. To cut a long story short we
found Puerto Toro after about two hours of adventuring. It was deserted and
we saw only one face peering shyly out of a window (and it disappeared when
we waved). We also found a path that skirted the outside of the forest and
lead directly back to the boat. The return journey took us less than half an
hour… typical.

This morning we set out to bring the boat round to Puerto Toro with the rest
of the crew (who had various adventures in our absence). We will find out
today whether the mysterious village is always deserted or whether, it being
a Sunday yesterday, they were all asleep/away/eating dinner at a friends
house/in church. We have put some of the crew ashore at our original
anchorage to walk over to Puerto Toro (the quick way) and we are motoring
the boat around to meat them. More on this story later.

In other news. An amazing carrot cake was made and eaten last night (thank
you TIm) and the Elinca has now officially run out of potatoes! If the shops
are not open in Puerto Williams later on today then the planned Hogmanay
dinner of haggis and tatties will have to be abandoned.

Lots of love,

Clare (looking forward to a shower this evening when we put into Puerto

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1 Response to No more spuds!!!!!

  1. Pete & Adele Lamb (Jenn's folks) says:

    Hi to all you Elincaians, hope this message finds you all fit and well. We are still following your exploits even though Jenn has long since left and is safely home again – phew! We talk about you as the boat people like you are some kind of Vietnamese refugees and when you are up against the elements we are sure you feel like this too:-) The Antarctic experience was just brrrrrrilliant to follow and your blogs are just amazingly informative as always. Maybe you could compile them all into a book someday? Just want to wish you all a very Happy and Safe New Year and we look forward to the next stage. Bon Voyage xx

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