I think that this is the most beautiful place I have ever seen. We are tucked in with four shore lines out in a rocky cove (Port Charcot at 65 degrees south). Above us on one side are towering jagged mountains covered in snow. Every now and again the growl of a mini avalanche rumbles in the distance. On the other side of us is a huge glassy calm bay strewn with huge icebergs. An ‘iceberg graveyard’. They are all grounded and slowly melting. When we arrived here they were all white and sparkling in the evening sunshine with cracks of neon blue showing through… but as the sun set the bay turned a fiery red and the icebergs turned black silhouetted against the distance. The sun doesn’t set here, it just dips low below the horizon and from south west to south east. The light turn the snow pink and see a ghostly blue. We sat on the top of the hill this evening and watched the sun until it had disappeared. Behind us on the rocks three types of penguins waddled around occasionally breaking the silence with their squawks. Once, the calm of the bay was broken by the fin of a whale. The weather has been against us until today, but what an amazing day to make up for it.
Tomorrow we are going to explore the ice berg graveyard further in the dinghies, then even further south down the stunning Penola Strait towards the Vernadsky base (Ukranian science base). There are rumours of one lonely Emperor penguin on an island half way down the channel and we know that the most northern adelie penguin colony on Antarctica is on Yalour Island just next to Vernadsky.